Voyage of Renewal

Wharton Esherick in Germany and Scandinavia
hannah weil at worktable

March 1, 2025 - June 1, 2025

The summer of 1931 was a pivotal moment in Wharton Esherickโ€™s career. Though he was on the verge of creating some of his most memorable furniture designs, his life weighed on him to the extent that he felt listless, in his words,โ€œflat as a desert.โ€ Renewal came in the form of a trip to Germany and Scandinavia that was funded by one of his great patrons, German American businesswoman Helene Fischer.ย Voyage of Renewalย follows Esherickโ€™s travels through Germany, Denmark, Norway, and Sweden. Drawing on WEMโ€™s archives and collections, the exhibition features one of Esherickโ€™s seven travel sketchbooks from the journey, historic photographs, a selection of souvenir postcards, and woodblock prints and printed textiles that he made from his sketches after returning home. Through these materials,ย Voyage of Renewalย gives insight into the people, experiences, and sights that restored his excitement for his art and life. The exhibition is in conjunction with the loan from a private collection of theย Hannah Weil Worktableย (1931) โ€“now on view in the Esherick Studioโ€“which Esherick designed and built for German sculptor Hannah Weil during his time overseas.

โ€ฆ I wish you would pull yourself together. You have had some hard knocks, but like your own hand-wrought productions, look what they have done for you. Your future today is absolutely all ahead of you. I look for changing and brilliant things and I know that I will see them.

– Theodore Drieser in a letter to Wharton Esherick, 1929

The novelist Theodore Dreiser wrote these lines to Wharton Esherick at a time when Esherick was emotionally wornโ€”in his own words, โ€œflat as a desert.โ€ He and his wife, Letty, were separating. Amidst this split, a catastrophic illness left Letty disabled, prolonging the householdโ€™s final dissolution for nine years. Wharton Esherick overcame his depression during this troubled time, but not in the bootstrapping way that Dreiser had wished for. Rather, he accepted a generous gift from his patron Helene Fischer: a trip to Germany and Scandinavia that was, for him, a voyage of renewal.

In the summer of 1931, Esherick sailed from New York to Germany. From there, he traveled north to Denmark, Norway, and Sweden, and south again to Bavaria. Along the way, he filled his sketchbooks with scenes of farms, cities, people, architecture, birds in flight, and boats on waterways. Other records of his travels include his camera roll, a selection of souvenir postcards, and woodblock prints that he made from his sketches after returning home.

Esherickโ€™s traveling companion for much of his European voyage was Hannah Weil, a German sculptor best known for her ivory carving. The two artists met through Helene Fischer, their mutual patron. Their friendship was intense to the extent that many people have speculated as to whether they were two sides of a love triangleโ€”the third being York Fischer, Heleneโ€™s son, whom Hannah Weil later married. While visiting Hannah in the tiny Bavarian town of Holzhausen, Wharton created a decoratively carved worktable for her with Yorkโ€™s help. The table, on loan to the Wharton Esherick Museum from a private collection, is on display in the Studio through fall 2025.

Image: Wharton Esherick traveling in Europe, photograph, 1931. Collection of the Wharton Esherick Museum.

esherick sketching during trip to europe 400x256

From Osloโ€ฆI had bought a ticket for a weekโ€™s trip through the fjord, one of those damn tourist things where every minute is arranged for one week in advance. I missed the first two minutes. It was fate or luckโ€”agent said he would catch me up on the party for $10 by motor. I handed him my ticket + said, refund please, or one ticket to Hamburg.

– Wharton Esherick in a letter to Theodore Dreiser, 1931

Wharton Esherick

Travel Sketchbook, 1931

Pencil drawing on paper

Esherick drew voraciously while in Europe. This image shows a page in a sketchbook that is one of seven that he filled cover-to-cover with drawings. With his pencil, he captured the rhythms, textures, moods, and life of his favorite subjectsโ€”city scenes and countrysides, waterways and skyscapes, boats and buildings, people and artworks.

pencil sketch on paper of a black and white rowboat
Wharton Esherick

Fjord, 1932

Woodblock print on paper

Esherick based the woodblock printย Fjordย on a pencil drawing from one of his travel sketchbooks. He carved the block and printed it at his Studio, soon after returning home from Europe. The scene that the print portrays is sereneโ€”two figures in a rowboat are silhouetted against the glistening surface of the glacier-carved waterway. By contrast, Esherickโ€™s written remembrance of visiting a fjord in Norway is of a touristy boat ride crammed with travelers. By his account, he rethought his plans and abandoned the excursion just as it was getting underway.

black and white rowboat sketched and printed on woodblock
Wharton Esherick

Holzhausen, 1932

Woodblock print on paper

This woodblock print portrays a view of theย Bavarian countryside from the village of Holzhausen, where Hannah Weil was living when Esherick visited her in 1931. In the print, a train travels through fields and forests; a boat floats on the waters of the vast lake, Ammersee; and the Andechs Monastary crowns a hill. Throughout the composition, Esherickโ€™s use of angular blocks of vibrant, contrasting patterns transforms the scene into a crazy quilt of textural energy.

woodblock print on paper of sketched Bavarian countryside

On to Oslo, there in a high pointโ€ฆthose old Norse log houses, filled with tools, tables, beds, tankards wonderful in their simplicity + variety yet over it I felt that great love, the workmanโ€™s love of materials, love of the use of the objects, love of the family for which they were made, how they loved a log. Loved a grain house which kept their food.

– Wharton Esherick in a letter to Theodore Dreiser, 1931
Norsk Folkemuseum

Postcard, Berdalstabburet fra Nesland i Telelmark (Storehouse from Sรธndre Berdal, Nelsand in Telemark), circa 1930

Halftone process print
sepia tone photo of wood cabin near pine trees
Emil Mostue Printers, Oslo

Postcard, Osebergfunnet. Vognen. (Oseberg Find. Cart.), circa 1930

Halftone process print

These postcardsโ€”which Esherick collected while travelingโ€”are from the Norsk Folkemuseum, an open-air museum of Norwegian cultural heritage in Oslo. The building pictured above is a 14th-century granary that was relocated to the museum from Telemark. The wood object shown below is an 8th-century Viking cart from an excavated burial called the โ€œOseberg Find.โ€ Esherickโ€™s letters home express respect and awe over historical woodworks, such as these, that he saw in Oslo.

sepia tone photo of 8th century Viking cart

I went back to Bavaria with friends + roamed over the countryside with Germans to villages + towns, quaint old cathedrals, magnificent farm hands in the fields. The rhythm of those German men + women in the harvest of oats or grass is like a dance.

– Wharton Esherick in a letter to Theodore Dreiser, 1931

Learn more about the Art, Work, and Everyday Life Installation